The Black and White cookie is a beloved staple of New York’s rich culinary landscape. It is as iconic as bagels, hot dogs, pizza, NY strip steaks, and pastrami on rye. For many, it’s a nostalgic favorite—especially for those, like me, who grew up enjoying them at the renowned Katz’s Bake Shop in the Catskills.
Today, you don’t have to look far to find one. Walk into nearly any deli, bakery, or supermarket across New York, and you’ll spot them behind a glass display—perfectly round, glossy, and thickly coated with half chocolate and half vanilla icing. Although this half-and-half treat has become a fixture in the city’s food culture, its story is layered with rich history, immigrant ingenuity, and even a dash of cultural symbolism.
One Cookie, Two Flavors, Infinite New York Stories
The history of the Black & White cookie is a bit unclear as far as official origin. Locals claim that the Black & White cookie traces back over a century to Manhattan’s Yorkville neighborhood. This area, once heavily populated by German immigrants, was home to Glaser’s Bake Shop, which opened its doors in 1902 and sadly closed on July 1, 2018. While it’s difficult to pinpoint the exact moment the cookie debuted, Glaser’s is widely credited with popularizing the cake-like dessert we know today.
The cookie’s roots are often linked to German and Jewish baking traditions, with similarities to “Amerikaner” cookies found in Germany. These soft, domed confections were often made with sour cream or buttermilk, resulting in a texture more akin to cake than a traditional crisp cookie.
From Sweet Treat to Symbol: The Anti-American Origins of the “Amerikaner
In Germany, the Amerikaner is a classic baked good that closely resembles the American Black & White cookie. Both share a soft, cake-like texture and often feature a glaze of vanilla, chocolate, or both. But despite their visual similarities, the Amerikaner carries a layered history shaped by postwar politics, cultural symbolism, and even anti-American sentiment.
An Amerikaner is a round, domed pastry made from a batter that produces a texture similar to pound cake. Traditionally baked on a flat sheet, it is glazed on the bottom, giving the unglazed side a domed appearance. The most common version features a simple white sugar glaze, though variants include chocolate ganache or a dual glaze—making them look much like New York’s Black & White cookie. Their soft, moist texture sets them apart from crisp cookies.
The name Amerikaner is believed to have originated during the 1950s in East Germany, where the cookie became popular among American GIs stationed in post-war Europe. Craving reminders of home, many gravitated toward the soft, familiar treat. However, amid growing anti-American sentiment, East Germans began referring to the cookie as “Amerikaner” in a mocking tone. A more pointed nickname—Ammonplätzchen (“Ammonia cookies”)—also gained traction.
This alternate name stems from the cookie’s leavening agent: ammonium bicarbonate (Ammoniumhydrogencarbonat), a compound historically used in European and Scandinavian baking. Known for its pungent odor during baking, it earned the nickname “smelly baking powder.” Although the smell dissipates in low-moisture recipes, leaving a neutral taste, the unappetizing aroma contributed to the derogatory tone behind Ammonplätzchen.
While ammonium bicarbonate is less common in home kitchens today, it still plays a role in commercial baking and various industrial applications due to its unique chemical properties. Most home bakers now opt for more neutral leavening agents like baking powder. Still, the legacy of the Amerikaner—and its ties to Cold War tensions, cultural mockery, and culinary adaptation—adds a surprisingly political layer to its sugary surface.
Look To The Cookie!
In the Seinfeld episode called, “The Dinner Party”, Elaine and Jerry go to a bakery to buy a chocolate babka for a party. Jerry goes off on a rant about the infamous “black & white cookie” saying that if chocolate and vanilla can blend so well in a cookie, that people should be able to get along, thus making the cookie into a symbol of unity!
“…and yet still somehow racial harmony eludes us. If people would only look to the cookie, all our problems would be solved….”
Brooklyn Delights: Cookies with an Accent
One day while casually grocery shopping at my local ShopRite, I stumbled upon a towering display of Brooklyn Delights baked goods. Among the tempting array, a rack of Black & White Cookies and Full Moons immediately caught my eye. I couldn’t resist—these were the cookies we grew up with. I had to try them… and of course, call everyone I knew to share the news that these are available locally!
These cookies were even better than I remembered. The secret, I suspected, had to be the quality of the ingredients. When I spoke with Frank Raimondi, COO of Brooklyn Delights in Farmingdale, New York, he confirmed what my taste buds already knew. In a phone interview, he explained, “We do everything by hand. No machines! We only use good, quality products—especially real chocolate—and source our ingredients locally.”
Although I love to bake and am known for my baking skills, I do buy their Black & White cookies. I often bring them to gatherings to share with friends because they’re genuinely delicious, and the fact that they’re individually wrapped makes them even more convenient. No, you don’t have to live on Long Island to find them. They are sold in New York in the following supermarkets: Shop Rite, Stop & Shop, and The Fresh Grocer. Wonderfully, Brooklyn Delights ships nationwide and sells the following:
- Rainbow cookies,
- Linzer tart cookies,
- Muffins,
- Croissants,
- Brownies,
- Coffee,
- Crumb Cakes & more!
Please note that they are a peanut free bakery BUT are tree nut & sesame aware! Kosher OUD, too!
So whether you’re chasing childhood nostalgia or just craving something unmistakably New York, the Black & White cookie—especially from Brooklyn Delights—is proof that some classics only get better with time.
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